I left Bergen with a feeling of sweet anticipation. After hiking Preikestolen and visiting Bergen and its surroundings, the stay at a remote fjord hotel would be one of the highlights of this two-week solo trip around Norway.
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After leaving my hotel, I walked in the crispy morning air to the Bergen Bus Station. It was June and yet, the mornings in Norway provide that freshness that southern countries often lack in summer.
It was Sunday and after waiting a while for the bus, I knew it is not coming. That morning, stones have fallen and blocked the road and my only alternative was a train ride to Voss. After the train and two bus trips, I was in Fjaerland. The owner of the historic hotel where I have booked a room for a few nights was waiting for me at the bus stop.
Even late for dinner, they did not let me hungry that evening.
I fell in love with my hotel room instantly. A small corner room with a tiny bath and the most comfortable bed I have slept on in decades. Wood, faux animal skin on the floor, and IKEA furniture made it look so simple yet so beautiful.
The rooms and bathrooms in this hotel are small but snuggly. A historic fjord house, this hotel with restaurant has all the elements of a feel-good, slow-paced holiday. The fjord vistas, the warmth of the timber and the cosy common rooms compensate for the lack of space.
Hotel Location and Local Attractions
On the next morning, after a delicious breakfast seasoned with views of the still turquoise fjord waters, I went on discovering the village.
Fjaerland is a place that feels still, just like the waters of the fjord. And just like they conceal what is under, the village is covert and obscure among the mighty cuddle of a glacier. It is the biggest glacier in Europe.
Although so small, Fjaerland does offer unique activities for its physically active and curious visitors.
Verandas and Views
The enclosed porch is a comfortably furnished hall, lit by the sun throughout the day. The piano is a centerpiece but the views of the fjord undermine its role as a focal point. Dazzling and immediately captivating the attention, they fill the room with the wonder of a unique Norwegian kind.
The deck lining the enclosed porch is simple and white. It offers even closer proximity to the ravishing landscape. Any decoration on it would be redundant. The moment you step out with a morning cup of coffee in hand, you are taken by the true marvel of the fjord. It is so beautiful and so palpable. Yet, ‘is it real?’ you might find asking yourself.
Old Fashioned, Genuine Hospitality
Just as old wine is synonymous with good wine, old-fashioned hospitality to me has the connotation of genuine, caring, attentive service to others.
At Fjaerland Fjordstue, you feel like visiting friends, not a paying guest. The contact with the staff is easy and personal. From the chef to the housekeeper, they do have the time to talk to you. Time is not precious here, the personal contact is.
I left the hotel with the impression that the people working here take their job as if this hotel was their own venture, not a workplace.
The Food is a Philosophy
In Fjaerland Fjordstue Hotel the food is a philosophy.
At breakfast, the bread is black, packed with nuts and dry fruits, and juicy. It tastes luscious and is made in the hotel’s kitchen.
For dinner, the feast is even richer. It is not included in your hotel accommodation rate and you need to make a reservation. It is not cheap either, but you will thoroughly enjoy it.
For the pleasure of your senses, international chefs are working and making their best to create gourmet masterpieces with the availability of local produce from the hotel’s own garden. Every day there is a different menu and your food intolerances or allergies are taken into account. The result is – a varied and memorable dining experience each evening of your stay.
Remote places often beckon the most free-spirited and mindful kinds of human beings.
The owners of this hotel, Bard and Linda, are people who in the past had well-paid jobs and lived for many years abroad. They were not happy with the life they were living. After deciding to invest in this comfortably sitting on the fjord’s shore hotel, they found life much more satisfactory.
As Bard himself said at one of the welcome meetings with hotel guests,
“when we spend too much time abroad you become a national romantic. And this is how it looks like national romantic”.
The hotel’s philosophy is oriented to the sustainable use of the resources that are available locally. From serving local beer to cooking with local produce as much as possible, the focus is on helping the farmers to continue their activities.
How to Get in Touch or Book
First, go and have a look at their Facebook or Instagram for the latest they’ve been up to. On the hotel’s website, you will find practical information on how to get there and also can book your room.